The Endangered Cactus Behind Mexico's Sweet Secret: A Look into the Illicit Trade of Acitrón
In a surprising twist, Mexico's sweet secret has been revealed to be rooted in an endangered cactus species. Despite being illegal, bars of acitrón, made from chopped-up barrel cacti (biznaga) soaked in sugar vats until crystallized, are stacked in nearly every stall at the Merced market in Mexico City.
According to a recent investigation by NPR Politics and NPR News, the illicit trade of acitrón has been thriving for years. Edith Hernández Torres, a shop owner at the Merced market, was quoted as saying that acitrón is special, with a unique taste that sets it apart from other candied fruits like lemon or sweet potato. "It tastes nothing like anything else," she said.
The barrel cactus, also known as biznaga, is an endangered species found in Mexico's desert regions. According to the National Autonomous University of Mexico, the botanical gardens at the university have been working to conserve and protect this species. However, despite efforts to preserve it, the cactus continues to be harvested for its use in acitrón production.
The process of making acitrón is labor-intensive and time-consuming. Chopped-up pieces of barrel cactus are soaked in vats of sugar until they crystallize, resulting in a sweet and crunchy treat that has become popular among locals and tourists alike. However, the harvesting of the cactus for this purpose has raised concerns about its sustainability.
According to experts, the demand for acitrón is high, particularly during holidays like Christmas and Easter when it is traditionally consumed as a sweet treat. However, the lack of regulation and enforcement has allowed the illicit trade to thrive, with many vendors selling acitrón without proper permits or licenses.
In an effort to address this issue, Mexican authorities have launched a crackdown on the sale of acitrón in recent months. Several vendors have been arrested and fined for selling the product without proper documentation. However, experts warn that more needs to be done to protect the endangered cactus species and regulate its use.
As one expert noted, "The demand for acitrón is not going away anytime soon, but we need to find a way to balance this demand with the need to conserve and protect the barrel cactus." Until then, the sweet secret of Mexico's acitrón remains shrouded in controversy.
This story was compiled from reports by NPR Politics and NPR News.
